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For most of the 20th century, Uzbekistan was closed. The Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva existed behind the Soviet curtain, largely inaccessible to foreign visitors. Then, in 2018, Uzbekistan's government began one of the most dramatic tourism liberalisations in modern history — visa restrictions dropped, new airports opened, and word began to spread: the Islamic world's greatest architectural treasures had been quietly waiting.
Samarkand is still underrated. Not for long.
Why Uzbekistan Is Having Its Moment
The combination that makes Uzbekistan extraordinary is almost unfair: Silk Road history at a scale that dwarfs anything in the Middle East, a cuisine that ranks among Central Asia's finest, genuine affordability, and tourist infrastructure that has been built almost entirely in the last six years. The crowds that have discovered Petra, Cappadocia, and Marrakech have not yet discovered Uzbekistan at scale. This window will not last indefinitely.
"At its peak in the 15th century, Samarkand was arguably the most important city in the world. It is astonishing that more people don't know this."
Peter Frankopan, The Silk Roads (2015)Uzbekistan by the Numbers
Samarkand: The Registan and Beyond
The Registan is the centrepiece of Samarkand and one of the most extraordinary public squares ever built. Three madrasas — the Ulugh Beg (1420), the Sher-Dor (1636), and the Tilla-Kari (1660) — face each other across a vast courtyard, their facades covered in turquoise, cobalt, and gold tilework of almost impossible intricacy. No photograph prepares you for the scale.
Samarkand's Essential Sites
- The Registan: Best visited twice — at sunrise when it's empty, and at dusk for the changing light on the tiles. Entry ~$6 USD. The sound and light show in summer evenings is worth seeing.
- Shah-i-Zinda: A necropolis of 11 mausoleums built along a sacred lane between the 11th and 15th centuries. The tilework here is even more refined than the Registan — and far less visited. One of the most moving sites in Central Asia.
- Bibi-Khanym Mosque: Built by Timur (Tamerlane) in 1404 to be the largest mosque in the Islamic world. Partially ruined and partially restored — the scale of ambition is still visible in the remaining portal arch, one of the tallest in Central Asia.
- Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum: The tomb of Timur (Tamerlane) — the conqueror who made Samarkand the capital of his empire. The ribbed turquoise dome is the template for every great Timurid dome that followed, including the Taj Mahal.
- Ulugh Beg Observatory: The 15th-century astronomical observatory of Timur's grandson, who calculated the length of a solar year to within 58 seconds of the modern value — in 1437. A remarkable monument to Islamic science.
Bukhara: The Living Museum
If Samarkand is the showpiece, Bukhara is the experience. The historic centre of Bukhara is still a functioning city — people live, work, and worship in the same lanes they have occupied for a millennium. The Ark Fortress, the Kalon Minaret, the Poi Kalon complex, and over a hundred madrasas and mosques are distributed across a compact old city that rewards aimless walking.
Stay in the old city: Bukhara has several beautiful B&Bs and small hotels converted from traditional merchant houses (called "havelis" or "hujras") within the historic centre. Staying here — hearing the call to prayer from the Kalon Minaret at Fajr, walking to the Lyab-i-Hauz pool for morning tea — is the complete experience. Prices are extremely reasonable: $30–60/night for a good room.
Khiva: The Walled City
Khiva's Ichan Kala — the inner walled city — is the most complete medieval Islamic city in Central Asia. Almost everything within the walls dates to the 18th and 19th centuries, preserved by the city's relative isolation even within the Soviet period. Walking through it at night, after the day visitors have left, is one of the most atmospheric experiences in the region.
Entry ticket: A single entry ticket (~$8 USD) covers most of the museums and minarets within Ichan Kala. The Islam Khoja Minaret offers the best views over the city. Allocate a full day minimum — ideally stay overnight to experience the city after dark.
Plov, Samsa & Uzbek Cuisine
Uzbek food is one of the great undiscovered cuisines of the world and deserves far more international recognition than it receives. The centrepiece is plov (rice pilaf cooked with lamb, carrots, and spices in a kazan — a large cast-iron pot) — the national dish. In Tashkent, the Central Asian Plov Centre serves it to 10,000 people per day from enormous open-fire kazans. In Samarkand, every restaurant has its own version and will debate fiercely why theirs is superior.
Must-Try Dishes
- Plov (osh): Uzbek rice pilaf. Best eaten for lunch (it's traditionally a midday dish) at a local chaykhana (teahouse).
- Samsa: Baked pastries filled with lamb and onion, sold from clay tandir ovens on street corners. Around $0.30–0.50 each.
- Shashlik: Lamb skewers grilled over charcoal. Simple, perfect.
- Lagman: Hand-pulled noodles with lamb and vegetables — Uzbekistan's answer to noodle soup.
- Non (bread): The round, stamped flatbreads baked in tandir ovens are integral to every meal. Never place bread face-down or throw it away — it is considered sacred.
Getting There & Getting Around
Flights: Tashkent International Airport (TAS) has good connections from Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), Dubai (flydubai), and several European cities. Uzbekistan Airways also operates direct flights from Frankfurt, London, Paris, and New York. Samarkand (SKD) and Bukhara (BHK) airports have some international connections, primarily from Russia and regional hubs.
High-speed train: The Afrosiyob train connects Tashkent to Samarkand (2h10m, ~$15 USD) and Bukhara (3h30m, ~$18 USD). Modern, comfortable, and efficient. Book at chipta.railway.uz — site is in Uzbek/Russian but manageable with Google Translate.
Cash: Uzbekistan is largely cash-based outside major hotels. Bring USD to exchange — rates are excellent at official exchange points. The Uzbek Som (UZS) is the local currency; 1 USD = approximately 12,700 UZS (2025). ATMs in Tashkent are reliable; less so in smaller cities.
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